The SHEVARDINO REDOUBTHasty earthworks, generally known as "redoubts," featured prominently in many Napoleonic battles. The Shevardino Redoubt played a key role on the eve of the Battle of Borodino (1812). This step-by-step terrain building guide will explain how to reconstruct the Shevardino Redoubt in 15mm scale, using simple hobby supplies--all listed in the column to the right.
This particular redoubt was a common Napoleonic field fortification, and as such, could also be used in other wargaming scenarios which require prepared earthworks. |
COST: $5
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#1. Designing the Redoubt
Historical details of the actual Shevardino Redoubt are scarce. Paintings of Borodino depict "The Great Redoubt," but no visual record illustrates the fortification at Shevardino. We know from written accounts that the redoubt was built on a raised mound, pentagonal in shape, and slightly elongated. The exact size of the redoubt is unclear, but can be deduced from historical sources, since we know that it housed a full battery of 12-pounders. Kutuzov only ordered the construction of earthworks on September 3, and since the French attacked Shevardino just two days later, the redoubt must have been hastily constructed.
Typical earthworks for the period included a shallow trench in front of a raised wall of dirt, sometimes reinforced with wooden supports. Unlike a modern-day bunker or pillbox, the back of a Napoleonic redoubt was almost always open faced.
With this limited knowledge of the Shevardino Redoubt, you can design your replica's footprint on a blank sheet of paper. At a minimum, it has to be large enough for a battery of artillery. Asthetically, I felt the need to garrison several stands of infantry to achieve the appropriate "look" of a formidable defensive position.
Typical earthworks for the period included a shallow trench in front of a raised wall of dirt, sometimes reinforced with wooden supports. Unlike a modern-day bunker or pillbox, the back of a Napoleonic redoubt was almost always open faced.
With this limited knowledge of the Shevardino Redoubt, you can design your replica's footprint on a blank sheet of paper. At a minimum, it has to be large enough for a battery of artillery. Asthetically, I felt the need to garrison several stands of infantry to achieve the appropriate "look" of a formidable defensive position.
#2. Basing & Playing with Putty
Once you draw the footprint for your redoubt, it's time to select a basing material. This is a critical step, because if you select a thin, flimsy base, it will warp and distort over time. Cardboard from a cereal box is a notoriously poor choice, because it's much too flexible. You want something sturdy, but not so thick that it dwarfs your 15mm miniatures. I prefer balsa wood. It's cheap, easy to work with, and does not warp with age.
After tracing the footprint to your balsa base, cut out the base with a hobby knife. There are many ways to build up a low dirt wall, but my preferred method is quick, air-dry modelling putty. You won't need to use much of it, because the dirt wall should only be shoulder height for a 15mm infantry figure.
After tracing the footprint to your balsa base, cut out the base with a hobby knife. There are many ways to build up a low dirt wall, but my preferred method is quick, air-dry modelling putty. You won't need to use much of it, because the dirt wall should only be shoulder height for a 15mm infantry figure.
#3. Toothpick Time
Before the putty or modelling clay dries, take the opportunity to add a few details with flat toothpicks. Later, when it's time to paint, these flat toothpicks will look like wooden planks, reinforcing the earthwork.
First, notch out a section of the dirt wall to represent a gun port for artillery. Then, line the inside of the dirt wall with flat toothpicks. You can easily break them with your fingers to achieve the correct height. Lightly press the toothpicks into the putty before it dries.
First, notch out a section of the dirt wall to represent a gun port for artillery. Then, line the inside of the dirt wall with flat toothpicks. You can easily break them with your fingers to achieve the correct height. Lightly press the toothpicks into the putty before it dries.
#4. Adding Texture
You want your dirt wall to paint nicely, so adding texture is essential. Wait for the putty to dry completely (this could take up to 8 hours), and then coat it with watered-down craft glue. Sprinkle sand or fine gravel over the glue, completely covering all putty areas. You may want to sprinkle some sand on the base, as well.
While waiting for the glue to dry, it's a good idea to reinforce the wood toothpicks with some light glue. You want to make sure these toothpicks don't fall apart in a few months....
The picture to the left shows the redoubt after texturing and black spray paint primer.
While waiting for the glue to dry, it's a good idea to reinforce the wood toothpicks with some light glue. You want to make sure these toothpicks don't fall apart in a few months....
The picture to the left shows the redoubt after texturing and black spray paint primer.
#5. Paint & Flock
The construction phase is complete. Now all that's left is painting. Since you used sand and gravel to simulate dirt, dry-brushing various shades of brown should be easy to apply. You can also add some grass flock to the base. But as a recent, hastily excavated earthwork, the historical Shevardino Redoubt probably didn't have much grass.
Not counting the time it took the putty or glue to dry, this project took just 30 minutes to complete!
Not counting the time it took the putty or glue to dry, this project took just 30 minutes to complete!